5 trends from Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2023 to look out for

5 trends from Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2023 to look out for
three images side by side of models walking the runway at fashion shows.
(Left: Kenzo middle: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Visuals for Gucci ideal: Martine Rose)

Brands massive and smaller — from upstarts to old-school — gathered in Europe over the final two months to present their Tumble 2023 menswear collections.

On the complete, the collections ended up standard of what one particular would hope from dresses developed for colder weather. There were being chunky knits, down-filled jackets, warm wool coats, and when it came to styling, lots of layering. But the massive takeaways have been about so substantially a lot more than that, such as a parade of checks, ties, and a standout shade of the season.

In this article are 5 trends that stood out at the reveals in Florence, Milan and Paris. 

A necktie renaissance

Each and every now and then, there is a craze which is seen both on the road and on the runways. A smattering of neckties exterior the displays primed those seeing to observe the menswear staple on the runways, wherever it was, of study course, taken up a notch. It was sure to take place finally: the time has occur to forage through your closet — or your dad’s or granddad’s — and dust off those neckties. 

This period we were treated to a analyze in neckties of all designs, dimensions and types. In Florence, Martine Rose — a guest designer at Pitti Uomo 103 — showed a assortment in her trademark louche, counterculture fashion, with silky neckties scattered all over, often matching the styles on the shirts. In Milan, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy confirmed vibrant ties, but it was an outsized necktie-cum-costume, adorned with an illustration, that stood out. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, at any time the overachievers, opened their show with a pair of trompe l’oeil seems that highlighted elongated collars and curving traces that turned bare chests into tie look-alikes serious types had been revealed afterwards, in shades identically matched to collared shirts. MSGM and Magliano opted for a additional laid-back method, loosening the knot and pairing a tie with an untucked shirt, respectively. 

Fringes at the forefront

There is a little something esthetically attention-grabbing about a fringe — the way it moves, strands dangling, bouncing to and fro. And the appear was on show about the past two months.

Some brands employed the basic fringes commonly discovered on a scarf. Belgian cult designer Jan-Jan Van Essche — yet another of the guest makes at Pitti Uomo in Florence — introduced blanket-like shawls that bore slender fringing that tickled the floor. In Milan, Fendi confirmed likewise trimmed shawls and scarves. What definitely drove the trend property, even though, was Fendi’s purple hoodie with fringing at the hem. 

From then on, it was simple to location the element, even in a a lot more subtle manner, on equipment at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Magliano. And in Paris, Hed Mayner played with uncooked hems on his jackets … a microfringe of kinds? 

Purple’s purple patch

Each and every period delivers with it a color that is established to shine, and for Fall 2023, that would surface to be purple.

It started out at Fendi, where Silvia Venturini Fendi showed a good collection of contemporary, laid-back menswear infused with shades of purple. At JW Anderson, it was assertion leather-based parts that were rendered in purple, which includes a motorcycle jacket and hardware-clad boots. 

The new, article-Alessandro Michele Gucci assortment showcased a purple overcoat as very well as a lavender peak lapel double-breasted blazer. In Paris, Dries Van Noten showed a slimmer get on the latter model in a vivid purple velvet. 

Emerging label Bluemarble reimagined camouflage with a purple tint even though also presenting up sunglasses, outerwear, trousers and sneakers in different shades of purple. At Dior Adult men, Kim Jones was a touch more refined, serving up purple Donegal tweed on a coat and a skirt. Even Yohji Yamamoto, ever dark in his perform, integrated a reddish purple in his palette for Slide 2023. 

Preppy patterns

With all the sharp types, neckties and plaids on the runways, prep put on appears poised for a revival in the 12 months to arrive. 

To these eyes, the star plaid was the gun-club test — twilled bands of various colors that build a checkered sample and, zoomed out, a windowpane plaid. It truly is one particular of the far more traditional styles, and a person which is often seen on warmer, thicker activity coats and trousers. That is exactly how Nigo offered it at Kenzo, whilst also making use of it to shorts and outerwear, alongside other plaids across the assortment. Even Walter Van Beirendonck, who, in the latest seasons, has cherished bright neon colors and latex (and whose do the job is seldom mentioned in the similar sentence as prep dress in), made use of a high-quality houndstooth sample in heritage colours on jackets. 

Dries Van Noten introduced checks, although Mike Amiri glammed up prep dress in staples for his namesake brand with a playful, youthful take on argyle. At Louis Vuitton, menswear visitor designer Colm Dillane, of KidSuper renown, reimagined plaids in a glitchy way, forcing custom and futurism to collide.

Après-ski pleasurable

When it wasn’t stunning to see skiwear–adjacent models — we did get in touch with these, on the complete, normal chilly-weather collections — there was a little something diverse about these seems to be. For just one, the outerwear didn’t sense forced, as it in some cases does when a brand name releases a skiwear capsule, say. Second, there was an embrace of the full skiing aesthetic.

Though Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton each provided up slope-all set appears to be — from puffy down-loaded outerwear, to (extremely luxe) snow trousers, to heat mittens and headbands — it was the likes of Gucci and Pimples that drove the skiwear craze property by leaning into the après-ski search. 

At Gucci, it was more delicate, with tall ribbed socks contacting to thoughts retro leg warmers spotted at a lot of a ski resort and a grey ribbed hoodie and pair of sweatpants resembling standard base layers. A decidedly weird Zits assortment featured knee-high socks, but also human body-con tops and one-items that seemed inspired by additional modern-day compression base levels. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson also confirmed a assortment with plenty of leggings. And 1 incredibly alpine Charles Jeffrey Loverboy appear featured Reasonable Isle knits, gloves and boots — and goggles to boot!

In addition to the aforementioned Armani and Vuitton, highly technological outerwear at 1017 Alyx 9SM and Hermès was accomplished in the fashion of up to date skiwear. Consider Arc’teryx but artisanal. 

All in all, it paints a picture of a 2024 wintertime with a lot of snowboarding — and après-ski enjoyable.

Marc Richardson is a Montreal-primarily based author and photographer. His perform focuses on vogue, culture and the intersection in between the two. He is put in the much better aspect of the last ten years observing and cataloguing menswear from New York and London to Florence and Paris. You can abide by him on Twitter @quicklongread and Instagram @shooting.people today.