Feb 6, 2023
For autumn/winter 2023/24, there will be no revolution, but beautiful clothes with impeccable cuts, luxurious fabrics, rich in creative research. The marathon of men’s shows in Florence, Milan and Paris, which ended on January 22, confirmed the ever-growing infatuation with tailoring via minimalist elegance that has emerged in recent seasons, as evidenced by the countless tone-on-tone total looks in a neutral palette where black dominates. But this return to classic style is achieved with a renewed approach to menswear, through a great deal of research into constructions and textures, while continuing to surf on the loungewear bandwagon. The attitude is relaxed with a long silhouette, playing on exaggerated volumes.
1. The long coat
The maxi coat will be the star piece of winter 2023/24. Enveloping, it goes down to the floor and sweeps the ground, preferably cut in a beautiful wool. Also available in leather, tweed, double-faced cashmere and other materials, it can sometimes be transformed into a cape. Often in black, like a cassock with a gothic twist a la Matrix or Nosferatu, or as a large pelisse, it can be worn bare-chested and bare-legged, as seen at Loewe, Dolce & Gabbana and AMI Paris, among others.
2. The suit in all its forms
Menswear has gone back to basics, but through a more sophisticated and sharper approach. The suit has been making a strong comeback for several seasons now. But this great classic is revisited in small ways, in the construction, the buttoning and the proportions. An elegant, nonchalant silhouette is favoured, with wide trousers and large, unstructured jackets with drooping shoulders, which are often split, extended into a stole, experimenting with asymmetries and unusual openings, and worn with a turtleneck jumper.
3. Loose trousers
The silhouette has been elongated more than ever by means of oversized trousers, which drip and sometimes pull at the bottom of the legs in a Nineties spirit. Comfort is key. With darts or zippers, or with pleats or drapes, trousers are worn loose and extra wide, sometimes looking like skirts as at Kenzo. The cargo model, with its maxi pockets, is particularly popular and is available in all materials.
Although streetwear is less present in menswear, the notion of comfort is no less essential and is even accentuated with an almost affective-child dimension, with many “regressive” pieces referring to childhood. Clothes must protect, but also and above all pamper, through warm and cosy materials and enveloping volumes. Next winter’s wardrobe should include at least one loungewear item (pants, jogging bottoms or other pieces, made in an ultra-soft material) and one plush piece, such as a worsted wool jacket or trousers, teddy bear jacket, curly wool cardigans, cashmere ensemble, sheep coat, etc.
5. A Scottish touch
Between tartans, Fair Isle patterns and kilts, the Scottish spirit made a statement on the catwalks this season. First of all with skirts for men. Introduced to menswear a few years ago, the skirt is now omnipresent, especially in the form of a pleated wrap kilt, which is easier to wear. The Scottish thread is also very present through the typical Scottish warrior checks used to underline a punk spirit and grunge style through lumberjack shirts, or a British chic side through the classic checked suit.
Shorts worn over trousers or leggings is the latest in winter chic, for a sporty, long-distance runner’s look. Large and wide, shorts can be transformed into comfortable Bermuda shorts to replace trousers. The shorts are part of a trend spotted on most catwalks that consists of overlapping multiple layers of clothing.
7. The tuxedo jacket
With the return to a more traditional wardrobe, the tuxedo jacket is the new must-have piece of the season. Recognizable with its black satin-covered lapels, it is now played down, worn bare-chested, or paired with a hoodie or casual trousers. It is revisited in unusual shapes or turned into coats as seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Fendi, Hed Mayner and Sean Suen.
8. Banker blue
This typically masculine sky blue, symbolised by the banker shirt, oscillating between azure blue and a more ash shade, is making a noticeable breakthrough on the catwalks. It is most often seen in total looks or in small touches through just one piece, like a scarf.
9. Home sweet home
The pandemic is not completely over and the domestic dimension is felt in many collections. Bode and Louis Vuitton recreated a real house on their catwalk. Federico Cina and Magliano made their models walk with chairs. At JW Anderson, they held their cushions tightly under their arms or against their chests. From a design point of view, this translates into quilted or blanketed coats, fringed capes and cozy, voluminous ensembles.
Sneakers and boots were seen on many catwalks, from rubber rain boots to leather biker boots, a look that is still very much in vogue. But clogs appear to be the new trend for winter 2023/24. Available from Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, Dhruv Kapoor and Etro, among others, who offer them in felt, embellished with gold studs.
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